What is most important for the effect, of fruit acid products, the pH value or the % of acid?

We are going to take a look into the pH of Nimue and the important role it plays when formulating our AHA-based Nimue products and treatments.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS AND OPTIMUM PH VALUES

Many people associate AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) with peels, but the truth is that it is not necessary to peel to benefit from these acids.

Our skin has a natural pH balance of between 4.2 and 5.6, with men having slightly more acidic levels than women. Our skin is naturally designed to fight against infection and the environment and the skin’s pH will directly affect its health and quality. 

The skin is made up of protein and water. Proteins are complex chains of amino acids that are sensitive to the alkaline or acid level (pH) surrounding them. When the skin's proteins react with an acid in a low pH, the acid breaks down the old existing skin tissues. The lower the pH, the stronger the acid, and the more active this process will be.

 

PH AND BUFFERING

Any time the natural pH level of a solution is changed, it is called buffering. A low concentration of basic salt (Trisodium Citrate) may be used to facilitate the buffering of an acid.

Buffering is designed to affect the actual pH level or how acidic the solution is and that is
important.

Buffering can increase or decrease a pH level. Normally, buffering increases the pH to make
the acid weaker or not as strong an acid.

With Nimue products, this is the case. Buffered and non-buffered products can therefore carry the same percentage of an active ingredient, but the strength of the acid is changed by the buffering agent.

 

HOW DOES THIS AFFECT THE PRODUCT?

The pH level of the product will be changed to bring it closer to the natural pH of human skin. This makes the acid less immediately active as an acid, resulting in a less irritating product. As well as being less irritating, buffered AHA’s retains its moisturising properties. In fact, studies show that buffered acids are more moisturising than unbuffered acids.

Non-buffered acids are generally stronger than buffered acids and while they may yield faster
results, they are more likely to cause redness, irritation and visible skin flaking or peeling.
Despite being less ‘active’ as an acid, the exfoliation/renewal benefits of buffered AHA’s
are not lost completely and will still bring results over time. Contrary to popular belief,
buffered acids are no less effective at renewing the skin. Buffering provides a time-release quality to the product. This prolonged effectiveness leads to significant long-term results.

Buffered peels are generally used for safety reasons. We need to respect the skin as the largest organ of the body and Nimue, as a responsible brand, believe that buffering will make the peel safer, but will not reduce its effectiveness. Additionally, the use of Nimue Neutraliser Plus after the active peeling, alleviates side effects without compromising on results. 

AHA EFFICACY

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA's) remain one of the safest methods of skin renewal. Their effectiveness depends on the type, concentration and combination of the AHA, its pH (acidity) and other ingredients in the product.

AHAs become effective at concentrations of about 7% to 8% with a pH of 3.5
to 4.0. Skin improvements should be apparent after four weeks of AHA
treatment, but AHA therapy also helps maintain skin health and is normally
continued indefinitely.

The Nimue approach is a 3 phase system introduced progressively to facilitate
not only safe exfoliation, but skin rejuvenation. This approach is unique in that it
is combined with select delivery systems, barrier protection and repair mechanisms to ensure optimum results without side effects.

 

 

AHA ACTION
The main action is to facilitate desmosomal degradation leading to an increase in corneocyte desquamation and increased epidermal proliferation.

There is also as an increase in hyaluronic acid (which can hold 1000x times its weight in water) and this might be one of the causes of increased skin ‘plumpness’.

By normalizing corneocyte cohesion, the stratum corneum is thinned, smoother, more flexible (even at low relative humidity) and the formation of dry, flaky scales is reduced .The overall result is skin which looks and feels better and healthier.

 

AHA BENEFITS

• Boosts skin moisture levels 
• Trigger long term renewal with gentle exfoliation  
• Improve skin suppleness and elasticity
• Banish dry, flaky skin
• Restore a radiant, youthful glow to the skin
• Improve skin tone and texture
• Diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Improve texture and oiliness in problematic skin
• Helps to improve appearance of hyperpigmented skin 

 

HOMECARE

 

AND

PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS