Shellac™ doesn´t last 21+ days. It lifts and chips – what am I doing wrong?

Understand the most common mistakes related to problems with the wear time of Shellac™ and how to fix them.

The Shellac™ system is designed to last 14-21+ days, depending on the selected Base Coat. Sometimes we may run into problems with the optimal wear time, and this may be due to several reasons. Most times it's application errors and here are the most common ones:

The preparation:

A correct preparation is an essential step for a long-lasting Shellac manicure.

• The purpose of the preparation of the natural is not only to make sure that the product can adhere correctly to natural nail, but also to make sure that the proximal nail folds are beautifully manicured, so you can apply product close to the cuticles without touching the skin. If the product cures to the skin it will most likely chip off. 
• Make sure that the cuticle is completely removed from the nail plate. When using Cuticle Away™ make sure to rinse thoroughly with water to neutralize the product. If you already are using Cuticle Away™ and still has issues we suggest that you try to perform a dry manicure instead. Some natural nails absorb too much water during a wet manicure and this can cause the Shellac to chip off during wear. 
• Dehydrate and clean the nail plate. It´s important to do it very carefully, or otherwise Shellac™ cannot create a strong bond to the nail plate. It's not enough to clean the nail with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol/Cleaner). You should always use a dehydrator like ScrubFresh™.
  
  Pro Tip: Don´t forget to clean the tip of the nail thoroughly also from the underside.

The application:

There are a few steps you should remember about the application.

• Apply only a THIN layer of CND Shellac Base Coat and don't forget to seal the free edge. Do not over-cure the Base Coat or the first layer of color can not bond properly. Always cure the Base Coat in button 1. 
• Thin to win! Make sure that the base coat is applied very thinly. You should only have just enough product on the brush to cover the nail. You should almost have a feeling of "rubbing" the base coat into the surface of the natural nail. If the base coat is applied too thick it will not cure "enough" during the 10 second cure and this can cause the product to chip off during wear as the base coat does not cure correctly together with the first layer of color coat. 
• The first layer of color should remain transparent! The second layer will make the colour opaque, if you have chosen an opaque colour. Make sure to shake the product well before the application.
• Make sure that the customers hand is placed correctly in the lamp and laying completely still before pushing the buttons. The thumb should be placed in the allignments. You also make sure that you cure on the correct buttons on the correct amount of time. You´ll find an overview of all curing times HERE.
• Make sure that you do not touch the skin with the product. CND recommends the 5-Point-Polish-Method application technique for perfect result.

The lamp:

• Shellac™ can only cure correctly if you cure it with the original CND lamp. If you use any other device, the durability of Shellac™ may be compromised. If Shellac™ is not properly cured, it can have a rubbery feel to it and the product will most likely chip off.

The natural nail:

• Shellac™ is designed for, and works best on, healthy nails. If a customer has really weak nails, there are two things you can do.
  
  You can ask the customer to use CND RescueRXx™ for 1-4 weeks before you start the treatment. RescueRXx™ is an intensive treatment for weak and damaged nails. The customer has to use it daily on clean nails for at least 7 days before the result shows. If the customer doesn't want to commit to a home care routine and wants to proceed with the application right away, you can offer an additional IBX treatment. It is a strengthening treatment applied under Shellac™. Read more about it here.
• Some natural nails require more strength that CND™ Shellac can offer. Plexigel Shaper is a great solution for those types of customers. Learn about Plexigel Shaper here.
• Ask the customer to use CND SolarOil™ daily while wearing Shellac™. SolarOil™ is really important, as it plasticizes the colour coating and nourishes the natural nail. Plasticizing the  nails will also reduce the removal time. Read more about Solar Oil™.