When it comes to CND™ SHELLAC®™ applications, we all face challenges from time to time. Please don’t worry. You are not the first, nor the last, to experience this. It´s a part of becoming an expert in the unique SHELLAC®™ application techniques.
We see it as our duty to help you overcome these struggles. In below article, we have collected the most frequent challenges to help shed light on why it happens and how you can solve the issue.
We invite you to read it carefully to be able to troubleshoot on your own application techniques and practice to become better and/or of course be able to help your employees elevate their skills. Please know that you always are welcome to connect with us if you need further help with troubleshooting.
Let´s shed light on different challenges that can occur with the SHELLAC®™ services. Below you will find some of the most common SHELLAC®™ application challenges.
PROBLEM: The product lifts from the free edge!
Examples of why it happens
Insufficient performance of P.E.P.
A proper manicure (P.E.P.) is crucial for the adhesion of SHELLAC®™, especially proper cleansing of both the surface of the natural nail AND the natural nail free edge.
How to solve it
When cleansing and temporarily dehydrating the nails with ScrubFresh™ it is crucial for the durability of SHELLAC®™ that you cleanse the natural nail free edge thoroughly, both ON the edge and UNDER it. This ensures a proper adhesion of the SHELLAC®™ Base Coat that is responsible for the adhesion of the color coat to the natural nail.
The seal is missing
The natural nail free edge line should always be sealed with SHELLAC®™ Base Coat, both layers of SHELLAC®™ Color Coat and also with the SHELLAC®™ Top Coat. The sealings will create layers of product that protects the natural nail during wear and prevent the product from chipping of.
How to solve it
We know that it can be challenging, especially on shorter nails, to create a proper seal, however it can be done and the technique is actually the same no matter the length.
Flatten the brush on both sides while removing all the product on one side, leaving a small amount on the opposite side of the brush. Then use your own thumb to push away the skin underneath the nail, so you easier can access the natural nail free edge.
IF the nails are very, very short you can reverse the brush and almost "scrape" product from the brush onto the natural nail free edge.
Under curing of SHELLAC®™
If the product lifts from the natural nail free edge or maybe even comes off in one piece it can be due to insufficient curing of the product. Insufficient curing can happen if colors have become too thick in the bottles, colors are applied in too thick layers, wrong placement of hand in lamp and cuticle build up at the natural nail free edge. Or if you do not use the CND™ LED lamp to do the curing of the SHELLAC®™.
How to solve it
1) Work with thin even layers. Colors applied in too thick layers can result in under curing so the product feels rubbery and lifts from the natural nail during wear.
2) Ensure proper hand placement. Wrong hand placement in the lamp can cause insufficient curing. Thumb should be placed in the alignment spot BEFORE pushing the buttons on the CND LED lamp
3) Remember to seal the natural nail free edge first – and NOT last. Sealing last can lead to product build up resulting in insufficient curing.
4) Always cure SHELLAC®™ in the original CND™ LED lamp.
Use of wrong application techniques
It is very simple. Just by using wrong application techniques you can compromise the durability of the SHELLAC®™ service. You should always use the CND™ 5 Point Polish Method that you learned during you SHELLAC™ education trainings.
How to solve it
Master the CND™ 5 Point Polish Method (link to article) technique which will help you to perform a consistent and even Shellac application. It will also help you to master product control. With correct brush control, you will also benefit of a much more professional look - and save time and product.
Wrong choice of service
Sometimes the condition of the customers natural nails require a service with more durability than CND™ SHELLAC®™ and the variety of CND™ SHELLAC®™ Top Coats can provide.
How to solve it
CND™ PLEXIGEL™ system can help strengthen the natural nail and thereby ensure proper durability of the SHELLAC®™ service which will then be applied over the PLEXIGEL™ overlay. CND™ PLEXIGEL™ will give the natural nail the more needed strength.
You can learn more about the CND™ PLEXIGEL™ system here
Wrong choice of Base Coat
Some nails needs a bit more strength than the CND™ Original Base Coat can provide. However, it is also a misconception just to go with the Wear Extender™ Base Coat - just to be on the safe side. If the Wear Extender™ Base Coat is used on nails that are too strong/hard the durability actually be less good than going with the original Base Coat that is more flexible.
How to solve itChoosing the right SHELLAC®™ Base Coat for each customer is something that will come with practice and as you get to know your customers nails and lifestyle.
To determine which SHELLAC®™ Base Coat to choose for new customers it is important to do a consultation where you have a look at the condition of the natural nails and ask the customer questions about their lifestyle and expectations of the service. Below you find some examples of questions you can ask the customer (or yourself) that can help you determine which top coat to go with:
- Are the natural nails healthy and normal in strength or are they weak and damaged?
- What type of work do you have? (office, warehouse, cleaning, studying and not doing any housework)
- Have you had your nails done previously? (what product was used and how did they last)
- What is the optimum time between services for you? (2+ or 3+ weeks)
Shape of natural nails
If the natural nails are very curvy, meaning growing downwards at the free edge, it can be difficult to achieve the proper curing as the light can’t cure “around corners”.
How to solve it
Be extra careful with not applying too much product on the natural nail free edge. Pay attention to applying thin layers. For this type of nails it might be necessary to apply 3 thin, thin layers instead of 2. If you suspect to work on this type of nails and are heavy handed with the amount of product you can cure first layer of color twice on button 2S.
This is also something that you should pay attention to. If your gel- or acrylic nails are sculpted very long and/or curvy and you apply SHELLAC®™ over them.
If you are working with gel or L&P this type of nails can be corrected in shape by shortening the natural nail and sculpt new ones using a tip or a form.
Base Coat has been applied too thick OR over cured
As the SHELLAC™® Base Coat is responsible for the adhesion and therefor also the durability it is important that it is used in the correct way. Several things can happen during application of the base coat.
1) SHELLAC™® Base Coat can be applied too thick and when cured for 10 seconds on button 1 that can result in under curing = changes of chipping
2) SHELLAC™® Base Coat will "over cure" if you cure it for 1 minute instead of 10 seconds. Over cure means that it will cure too much than it is intended to, resulting in that the sticky layer will not have the right surface to "grab" the color coat correctly during curing = chances of chipping
How to solve it
Less is more when it comes to application of SHELLAC™® Base Coat.
You should apply just the right amount of product. There should be just enough product on the brush so that you dont have to go over the nail multiple times. But only as much so you don't "float" on the base coat. SHELLAC™® Top Coats and pastel colors should be applied with a floating motion, but not the Base Coat.
CND SHELLAC™® Base Coat should be cured for 10 seconds on button 1.
And DO NOT push the button before the customers hand it correctly placed in lamp - and is lying still. Those first few seconds of light are so important to achieve the proper curing.
PROBLEM: The surface of the color wrinkles after curing!
Examples of why it happens
Color has gone thick
A color will thicken in the bottle if solvents have evaporated out of the bottle. Solvents are the fluid ingredient in SHELLAC®™. Using colors that has become thick can cause under curing and as a result of that the color can wrinkle and even get a rubbery appearance that will be easy for the customer to peel of.
Example of how different Indigo Frock can look like if not shaken correctly prior to use which with time can result in colors that has thickened.
How to solve it
To prevent your colors from going thick in the bottles pay attention to:
1) Bottle neck and cap should be clean and free of product otherwise solvents will evaporate out of the bottle resulting in thickening of the product. Make sure to create a protocol for this in the salon, especially if you own or work in a salon where the bottles are used by different Nail Professionals.
2) Shake new colors (or colors that has been standing on the shelf for a longer period of time) for up to 1-3 minutes (not only 30 seconds).
This is to ensure a proper blend of the unique formula that each color has. SHELLAC®™ Colors that you use on a regular basis, also base- and top coats, can be shaken for 30 seconds before each use.
3) To ensure salon succes you should exchange the thickened color with a new bottle. There is no way to make the color useable once it has gone thick. It will only cause service problems for you.
Layers are being applied too thick
If SHELLAC®™ is applied too thick it can result in both under curing and wrinkling. It happens because the color contains too many pigments than the original formula was originally produced with meaning that the UV-light cannot cure all the way through the product.
How to solve it
Ensure layers are applied in thin even layers. First layer of color should almost be transparent and can also look streaky. If first layer of color is given the appearance of full coverage you could look into working on your product control and check the quality of the color.
If you suspect a color to be too thick or too old you can try and cure first layer of color twice on button 2S. However, this is only an alternative and "panic" solution if the customer for some reason only can wear that specific color. A color that has gone thick or is suspected too old should always be replaced to ensure salon service success.
Issue with the CND™ LED lamp
Check if all lights in your CND™ LED lamp are working. If the bulbs are covered with product it can affect the curing. If all the bulbs are not turning on the lamp will not deliver a proper cure. Issues with wrinkling and under curing can also be a result of not using the lamp that comes with the system. To ensure salon success you must always cure CND™ SHELLAC™® in the original CND™ LED lamp.
Older version of CND™ lamps may of course be used. However, if you are offering professional SHELLAC™® services you should consider to exchange your lamp to the newest, most updated version.
How to solve it
You should have a protocol for regularly checking the bulbs in your CND™ LED lamps. Bulbs and the inner surface of the lamp should always be kept as clean as possible. Start by educating your clients how to insert their hands in the lamp to avoid them hitting the sides and the bulbs with their fingers. And at the same time ensure proper hand placement. Bulbs can be cleaned with a wipe moistened with Offly Fast™ Moisturizing Remover. Avoid scraping off product with a sharp tool.
Wrong placement of hands in the CND™ LED lamp
As curing times in LED lamps are so short it can have an impact on the full curing if just as little as a few seconds of the first light is missed.
How to solve it
Make sure that customers have placed their hand correctly in the alignment guides BEFORE pushing any of the preset buttons. Teach your customers proper hand placement and be patient with that step before pushing the buttons. Thumb should be placed at the red marks and hand should be laying still - and then you can push the button.
PROBLEM: Discoloration
Examples of why it happens
Wrong choice of top coat
If you apply a CND™ SHELLAC™® Top Coat that does not match the condition of the customers natural nails or lifestyle it can cause discoloration. If a customer has a more heavy handed type of work it makes no sense to apply Xpress5™ or No Wipe+™ Top Coat as the strength of these top coats not will be durable enough.
How to solve it
Choosing the right top coat for each customer is something that will come with practice and as you get to know your customers nails and lifestyle.
To determine which top coat to choose for new customers it is important to do a consultation where you have a look at the condition of the nails and ask the customer question about their lifestyle. Below you find some examples of questions you can ask the customer or yourself that can help you determine which top coat to go with:
- Are the natural nails healthy and normal in strength or are they weak and damaged?
- What type of work do you have? (office, warehouse, cleaning, studying)
- Have you had your nails done previously? (what product was used and how did they last)
- What is the optimum time between services for you? (2+ or 3+ weeks)
- How much time do you have to spend in the salon? (removal time on Top Coats with more strength will be longer)
If in doubt always go up in strength of top coat and not down.
Top Coat may be applied too thinly
The most common cause to discoloration is too thin application of top coat and/or missing to do a correct seal. To get to know how to apply each customers you should know the properties of your CND™ SHELLAC™ Top Coats well.
How to solve it
To know how to apply the different types of CND™ SHELLAC™® Top Coats you should know following:
Thin Viscosity top coats
Xpress5™ and No Wipe+™ top coat has a thin viscosity. When you take the brush out of the bottle you can compare it with the viscosity of water. Imagine that the brush is your hand and you put your hand in a bucket of water. There will only be a little water (top coat) on your hand when taking it out of the bucket (bottle). So therefor you must make sure that you "scoop" out enough of the top coat on the brush, otherwise you will have too little product on your brush.
Medium Viscosity top coats
SHELLAC™® Original Top Coat has a medium viscosity. When you take the brush out of the bottle you can compare it with the viscosity of oil. Imagine that the brush is your hand and you put your hand in a bucket of oil. There will be more product on your hand, than with the water. Most of the time that will be just the right amount, when you wipe one side of the brush free of product, but you must still pay attention to having enough product on the brush.
Thicker viscosity top coats
Duraforce™ Top Coat has a thick viscosity. When you take the brush out of the bottle you can compare it with the viscosity of butter that has been standing on the table in room temperature. Imagine that the brush is your hand and you put your hand in a bucket of butter. There will be even more product on your hand, than with both the water and the oil. Here you must pay attention to not to have too much product on the brush.
About application of Top Coat application in general:
All top coats must be applied with a "floating" motion. You should at all times have a drop of top coat between the brush and the surface of the nail and guide the product into place. This will ensure an evenly applied layer with no streaks or pits. If you are using too much force, allowing the brush hairs to spread, so it is in contact with the surface of the nail two things can happen.
1) The top coat is applied too thin and
2) The surface will most likely be uneven with streaks having a hard time to "settle".
A way to explain floating vs. using to much force
Imagine you sitting on the beach with the fingers in the sand. To dig a hole you spread your fingers or make a spoon like shape to move sand, like shovel. And you have to use movement and muscles. Now image that you wish to make the surface of the sand even. You flatten your hand and very lightly kind of "pet" the surface of the sand to make it even. That is the movement that should be used to apply any top coat.
The color is pink or contains pink pigment
Any color that contains pink pigments is prone to get discolored when exposed to sun light. This is simply how the property of some pink pigments work. This issue is most see during the summer og during vacations in sunny places. The combination of sun, SPF and pool water can cause the color to fade or get discolored.
How to solve it
There are different things that you can take into consideration if your customer is going away on vacation to a sunny place and insists on wearing a pink color.
-Make sure to use a strong top coat like CND™ SHELLAC™ Original- or Duraforce™ Top Coat. The removal time of these top coats are longer, meaning that solvents (lotions, water etc.) has a harder time penetrating through the surface.
- Apply 2 layers of Top Coat. 2 layers of Top Coat with strengthen the surface preventing solvents from penetrating the product.
-Explain to customers that they should avoid SPF from getting in contact with the color
-Apply any choice of glitter over the surface of the color and use Original- or Duraforce Top Coat over. If the color should fade it will not be as visible as the glitter will not fade.
Missing or insufficient seal
A missing or insufficient seal can cause discoloration at the natural nail free edge as solvents and dirt can work their way in and get stuck between the product and the natural nail.
How to solve it
To get a proper seal you should pay attention to following during your application:
- Cleanse the natural nail free edge thoroughly with ScrubFresh™ before applying the Base Coat.
- Seal all layers from Base Coat to Top Coat.
- Avoid filing on the natural nail free edge after SHELLAC™® has been applied. Make sure to also tell your customers about this.
We know that it can be challenging, especially on shorter nails, to create a proper seal, however it can be done. A pro tip for you is to flatten the brush on both sides while removing all the product on one side, leaving a small amount on the opposite side. Then use your own thumb to push away the skin underneath the nail, so you easier can access the natural nail free edge.
IF the nails are very, very short you can reverse the brush and almost "scrape" product from the brush onto the natural nail free edge.
Exposure to solvents
As CND™ SHELLAC™® can be removed with Offly Fast™ Moisturizing which contains acetone it of course means that other solvents also can and will penetrate through the surface if overexposed to it. If this is the cause it can cause staining of the color. Most often this will not happen first time exposed but after repeated, however it can of course happen especially if the solvents or ingredient contains pigments. This can for example be found in Curry or Self-tanning products.
How to solve it
Use gloves when doing the dishes, cleaning the house or performing any hard work as gardening to prevent the nails from getting stained or discolored.
IF this should happen to one of your customers it is possible to fix by buffing the surface of the CND™ SHELLAC™® Top Coat with the fine side of the Koala™ Buffer (1200-grit side). This will most times remove the stains and you can go ahead and cleanse the surface with 99% IPA (TopFinish™) and apply a new layer of Top Coat.
PROBLEM: The SHELLAC service takes me too long time to do!
Examples of why it happens
You may be spending too much time on the preparation of the natural nails (P.E.P.) - without charging for it!
Don’t give away a free full manicure with your SHELLAC™® service. If the customer only has not booked a manicure together with their SHELLAC™® service you ARE giving away a free manicure and of course the service will then take you too long time to perform.
How to solve it
These are the timings you should aim and practice to achieve - if the customer is not making a booking for manicure was well:
- Quick P.E.P. / 10 minutes
(Gently push back the proximal nail fold, remove cuticle, shape nails, cleanse)
- SHELLAC™® Application / 20 minutes
(Base Coat, Color and Top Coat)
Wrong or insufficient application techniques
When beginning offering SHELLAC™® services it is common to "overdo" the application meaning that you will most likely spend too much time on some of the different steps of the steps of the application.
How to solve it
Master the CND™ 5 Point Polish technique which will help you to perform a consistent and even SHELLAC™ application. It will also help you to master product control and reduce service time.
A great example of what you can pay attention to at your next service is to count the amount of strokes that you are using to apply SHELLAC™®. Are you using 5 strokes? - or 20 or 52?
Customer handling takes too long time
We all know the situation. The customer arrives in the salon for a SHELLAC™® service. We begin to perform the P.E.P. and before that we ask the customer to think about their choice of color. 10 minutes later (maybe even 20) the customer has still not decided. Result you will spend too much time on that service and most likely get delayed for the rest of the day.
How to solve it
We would like to encourage you to integrate in your bookings HOW the customer should choose their color.
Invite customers to come to the salon 10 minutes before their service to decide on a color for their next service. It is also an option to integrate this during the removal time. It can be either or, but it is important that you plan and integrate this into your bookings to bring down the actual service time at the nail table. Its only a matter of teaching your customers of this process. Less service time is a win-win to both you and the customer.
Removal is taking too long
Increased removal time is a very common issue in the salons. And the most times it is due to an evil circle that we, as the nail pro, has created for ourselves.
If we are in a hurry it is tempting to grab an orange wood stick or a cuticle pusher to remove any product residue from the surface of the nail. However, if you begin to do this, it will make the next removal even harder to get off, and the next even even harder etc. The evil circle of difficult removals has been created - by ourselves...
How to solve it
To achieve gentle and efficient removals we should not file on the natural nail or scrape of any product with a sharp tool.
It will come back to “haunt" you!
- Saturate the cotton pad with Offly Fast™ Moisturizing Remover and wrap all 10 fingers in Remover Wraps
- Set the timer depending on what SHELLAC™® Top Coat that has been used (be patient and wait for the timer to go off)
- Give the remover wrap a good massage and take it off.
And wait for the butterfly removal effect to happen. If the butterfly effect does not happen, re-wrap and continue removal on remaining nails and come back to this nail.
- Rub of any remaining product residue with a plastic backed hands-down pad saturated with Offly Fast™ Moisturizing Remover.
The surface should look healthy and be completely free of product, without using any other tools than remover and a wipe.
PROBLEM: My SHELLAC services does not last for 2+weeks!
Examples of why it happens
Maybe SHELLAC™® is not the right choice of service for particular customer
If a customer is struggling with keeping SHELLAC™® on you might take into consideration if SHELLAC™® has enough strength for the customers need. Some customers may need a stronger coating, as gel, underneath SHELLAC™® to be able to wear for 2+ or maybe 3+ weeks.
It can be because the condition of the customers natural nail are too poor or that the customers lifestyle requires more strength than a CND™ SHELLAC™® can provide. Even if using both Wear Extender™ Base Coat and Duraforce™ Top Coat.
How to solve it
The CND™ PLEXIGEL™ can be used as a strengthening Booster underneath the SHELLAC™® service. It will help strengthening the natural and thereby ensure proper durability of SHELLAC™®.
You can learn more about the PLEXIGEL™ system here
Reach out to your distributor for support on which enhancement system is right for you to have in the salon.
We offer education in several nail systems that offers more strength. You can take education in:
- CND™ PLEXIGEL™
- CND™ Brisa Gel
- CND™ L&P (Acrylic)
The natural nails are in a bad condition
CND™ SHELLAC™® is designed to adhere to healthy natural nails. If nails are overfilled or in any way are weak or damaged nails may require a stronger coating as gel or acrylic. However, it can also be that the nails needs some help to be repaired and get back to its healthy original state.
How to solve it
To help rescue and repair damaged natural nails you should send following products home with your customer:
- CND™ SolarOil™
- CND™ RescueRXx™
- CND™ Cuticle Eraser™
Wrong choice of top coat
If you apply a CND™ SHELLAC™® Top Coat that does not match the condition of the customers natural nails or lifestyle it can cause discoloration. If a customer has a more heavy handed type of work it makes no sense to apply Xpress5™ or No Wipe+™ Top Coat as the strength of these top coats not will be durable enough.
How to solve it
Choosing the right top coat for each customer is something that will come with practice and as you get to know your customers nails and lifestyle.
To determine which top coat to choose for new customers it is important to do a consultation where you have a look at the condition of the nails and ask the customer question about their lifestyle.
Wrong choice of Base Coat
Some nails needs a bit more strength than the CND™ Original Base Coat can provide. However, it is also a misconception just to go with the Wear Extender™ Base Coat - just to be on the safe side. If the Wear Extender™ Base Coat is used on nails that are too strong/hard the durability actually be less good than going with the original Base Coat that is more flexible.
How to solve it
Choosing the right SHELLAC®™ Base Coat for each customer is something that will come with practice and as you get to know your customers nails and lifestyle.
To determine which SHELLAC®™ Base Coat to choose for new customers it is important to do a consultation where you have a look at the condition of the natural nails and ask the customer questions about their lifestyle and expectations of the service. Below you find some examples of questions you can ask the customer (or yourself) that can help you determine which top coat to go with:
- Are the natural nails healthy and normal in strength or are they weak and damaged?
- What type of work do you have? (office, warehouse, cleaning, studying and not doing any housework)
- Have you had your nails done previously? (what product was used and how did they last)
- What is the optimum time between services for you? (2+ or 3+ weeks)
Using colors that are too old
Colors can get too old. If not used and shaken on a regular basis colors can become thick and goopy to work with. Colors like that needs to be replaced with a new bottle.
How to solve it
To ensure that your colors are good to the last drop you can pay attention to:
1) Bottle neck and cap should be clean and free of product otherwise solvents will evaporate out of the bottle resulting in thickening of the product.
2) Shake new colors (or colors that has been standing on the shelf for longer time) for up to 1-3 minutes (not only 30 seconds). This is to ensure a proper blend of the unique formula that each color has.
If you are working by yourself or it has been a while since you did your last SHELLAC™® training maybe its time to get "out there" again. To maintain the correct techniques - and to follow protocols, requires hat you from time to time keep yourself updated.
How to solve it
Revisit the step by step to ensure that the CND™ SHELLAC™® protocols are followed.
Our SHELLAC™® E-Learning Classes are always available for you to take - or re-take if you would like to get your knowledge freshened up.
PROBLEM: Streaks in the color during application
Examples of why it happens
Wrong angle of brush
If the brush is being used in a wrong angle it can cause different issues with your application. This issue is mostly seen when applying pastel colors. It takes some practice and the correct techniques for those colors to not get streaky during application. Once the streaks are there, they are difficult to get rid of.
What actually happens is that an angled brush (and using to much pressure) will remove the product again from the surface of the natural nail, leaving streaks behind. And as the solvents in the color begins to evaporate as you work the color on, the streaks will get worse and worse the more brush strokes you take.
How to solve it
You should pay attention to the following when working with pastel colors.
- The brush should be kept parallel to the surface of the natural nail.
- Apply pastel colors with a "floating" motion. You should at all times have a drop of color between the brush and the surface of the nail and guide the product into place. This will ensure an evenly applied layer with no streaks or pits.
Using too much pressure when applying pastel colors
- Avoid using a heavy touch. If you are using too much force, allowing the brush hairs to spread, so it is in contact with the surface of the nail two things can happen.
1) The color coat is applied too thin and
2) The color will most likely be uneven with streaks and having a hard time to "settle"
How to solve it
Pastel colors should be applied with a "floating" movement - avoiding using too much pressure/force.
A way to explain floating vs. using too much pressure/force: Imagine you are sitting on the beach with the fingers in the sand. To dig a hole you spread your fingers or make a spoon like shape to move sand, much like a shovel. And you have to use movement and muscles. Now imagine that you wish to make the surface of the sand even. You flatten your hand and very lightly kind of "pet" the surface of the sand to make it even. That is the movement that should be used to apply any top coat.
Color is applied to thin
If colors, especially pastel colors are applied too thin streaks can look even worse.
How to solve it
If pastel or brighter colors are applied using both too much pressure and a wrong angle of the brush the color will most likely be applied too thin. Because angle and pressure is wrong you will simply remove the product yourself. So go light and flat with your brush to ensure thin, even layers of pastel colors. Pastel colors should, and the same goes for top coats, be applied with a "floating" movement. Read description of floating in the previous example.
PROBLEM: Uneven application at cuticle line and sidewalls
Examples of why it happens
Improper performance of P.E.P.
An insufficient P.E.P. will make it difficult to apply SHELLAC™® evenly around the perimeter of the nail. A proper P.E.P. will ensure that the nail plate is completely clean and free of cuticle, hang nails or any loose skin around the perimeter of the nail. If cuticle is left on the nail plate it is difficult to apply any color or type of product evenly at the cuticle line and side walls.
How to solve it
If it is a challenge for you to apply the product evenly, and also close to the cuticle you can practice on below pro tips.
- Be careful with your cuticle pusher/tools during the manicure. If you scrape too much or too hard on the surface of the nail pieces of keratin will be raised from the surface of the nail making it difficult to apply the product even.
- Cleanse very, very thoroughly with ScrubFresh™. Especially at cuticle area and along the sidewalls. The nail should be clean and free of dust.
Base Coat is applied uneven and not close enough to cuticle line and sidewalls
Make an extra effort to apply SHELLAC™® Base Coat as thin and close to the cuticle line and sidewalls as possible. Where Base Coat is applied the Color Coat follows. If you try to apply color over that line of where Base Coat has been applied you will not succeed in creating an even application.
How to solve it
Pay attention to draining and flatting the base coat brush. It is so much easier to work close to the skin with a brush that is flat.
When picking up Base Coat on the flattened and drained brush make sure that you only have product on one side of the brush. You will now be able to work close to the cuticle line and side walls without actually touching the skin with the Base Coat.
Use the reflection of your table lamp to see if you have covered the entire nail. It will be easy to see where the nail is matte or shiny,
Working from "above" and not turning the customers fingers
If you do not rotate the fingers like advised in step 3 and 4 in the CND™ 5 Point Polish Method you are not able to "see" the sidewalls and how can you then expect to polish the perfect sidelines if you have no visibility.
How to solve it
To be able to see where you are polishing you should practice the CND™ 5 Point Polish Method. Especially step 3 and 4 are important when it comes to painting beautiful sidelines,
Step 1: Seal the free edge
Step 2: Bead in the middle
Step 3: ROTATE finger to the right - and paint the left side of the nail
Step 4: ROTATE finger to the left - and paint the right side of the nail.
Use your own fingers to pull back the skin of the sidewalls to get an even better view.
Step 5: Repeat and refine
- Use a helping tool as a small detail brush to perfect the application of the color along cuticle line and sidewalls.
Using the brush straight out of the bottle
Preparation of the brush is key. If the brush is not flattened and/or you have too much product on it, it can be difficult to achieve nice and even cuticle- and sidelines. It will be difficult just to get close to the skin. And if you are not able to get close to the skin, it is even more difficult to create an even application.
How to solve it
Here are some things that you can observe yourself on and implement in your application techniques.
- Drain the brush from product on the INSIDE of the bottleneck
- Flatten the brush on both sides on the edge of the bottle neck, working from inside and out.
- Then pick up a small amount of product to seal the free edge with
- Go back into the bottleneck and pick up some product, on one side of the brush only, By always keeping one side of the brush completely free of product. You will be able to work close to the cuticle line and side walls without actually touching the skin with the product. If it happens always remove any color from skin before curing. You can use a corrector pen, a brush or an orange wood stick for this.
Brush still contains starch from production
From time to time we find that some SHELLAC™® brushes still have starch in them coming from producing them. If that is the case you can experience that it looks like there a dust or lint in your SHELLAC™® application. If you suspect that could be the reason(and not an uneven surface of the natural nail) then the brush should be cleaned.
How to solve it
To remove starch or any product residue from the brush, the bottle neck or inside the bottle cap simply clean it with a wipe saturated with TopFinish™ (99% IPA).
Pro Tip: If your bottlenecks and caps needs to be cleaned you can actually remove the brush from the cap and clean all parts with TopFinish™. Removing the brush from the cap will help you to able to get into the places that are difficult to reach.
PROBLEM: The top coat turns matte after curing
Examples of why it happens
Under curing
If the lamp for some reason is not giving the optimum output it can result in the top coat turning out matte after curing as it is simply not fully cured. The same can happen if the customers hand doesn't have the correct hand placement in the lamp OR if the button is being pushed before the hand is lying still in the lamp.
How to solve it
For correct curing and optimum shine make sure following
1) Ensure all bulbs are working and not covered with any product
2) Make sure the customers hand is correct placed in the lamp. When hand is in place and lying still you can push the button.
Too thin application
If top coat is applied too thin it can turn matte after curing.
How to solve it
About application of SHELLAC™® Top Coat in general:
All top coats must be applied with a "floating" motion. You should at all times have a drop of top coat between the brush and the surface of the nail and guide the product into place. This will ensure an evenly applied layer with no streaks or pits. If you are using too much force, allowing the brush hairs to spread, so it is in contact with the surface of the nail two things can happen.
1) The top coat is applied too thin and
2) The surface will most likely be uneven with streaks having a hard time to "settle".
A way to explain floating vs. using to much force
Imagine you sitting on the beach with the fingers in the sand. To dig a hole you spread your fingers or make a spoon like shape to move sand, like shovel. And you have to use movement and muscles. Now image that you wish to make the surface of the sand even. You flatten your hand and very lightly kind of "pet" the surface of the sand to make it even. That is the movement that should be used to apply any top coat.
Incorrect removal of the top film
Another issue that can cause the top coat to turn mat can be if the top film is being removed too soon after curing and/or by using too much pressure.
(or actually also if top coat has been applied too thin)
How to solve it
Wait for 60 seconds after curing of the top coat with removing the top film. Use a wipe moistened with TopFinish (99% IPA) to remove the top film. Use circular motions and a light touch too avoid using too much pressure.
Would you like to learn more about CND™?
At Insight Cosmetics Group, we have a variety of contact and training options available to you as a professional beauty therapist.
- Call us under (DK) +45 3332 3322.| (DE) +49 (0) 221 920 490 | (AT) +43 (0) 720 881 062 | (CH) +41 (0) 415 880 432 | (SE) 08-40 83 82 33 | (FI) 09 31579233
- Feel free to write us an email to info@icgroup.dk.
- Discover the free e-learning app and take part in one of our exciting CND™ e-learning training courses