Why do some SHELLAC™ or Gel Polish colors fade or lose color?

When the Summer season starts, some customers experience that their Shellac or Gel Polish colors begin to fade or change their color. Learn here how to prevent this.

CASE 1 FADING:

To prevent fading colors - which occurs mostly during Summertime - there are a few different reasons. It is very rare that the color itself has a "defect", usually, you can prevent the fading with proper application or handling.

The stability of the color's formulation is a requirement for all nail coatings, not matter if you use nail polish, gel polish, or color gel. Therefore these products always contain special color stabilizers. Some pigments used in cosmetics are more likely to fade than others due to their chemical structure. Especially pink pigments are more likely to fade. 

As a general rule color pigments are more stable the more gel is in the product as the gel builds a strong "cover" around the pigments. Therefore, nail polishes are more prone to fade than a color gel. Gel polishes are formulated with acetone soluble polymers making them removable in about 5-10 minutes. This means that gel polishes and Shellac are less chemically resistant than gels, liquid & powders, or other enhancement products.

Some pigments are sensitive for chemical exposure during daily activities such as bathing, house cleaning, laundry, gardening, car washing, swimming, etc. Especially the sunlight can be a strong chemical accelerator. Heat and humidity have much less effect on fading but can have an effect when combined with chemical or sunlight exposure.

So what can we do to help prevent this from happening?

• Apply Shellac or the gel polish as even as possible. 
• Use the right top coat. If you are working with the Shellac system it is a good idea to use Original Top Coat or Duraforce as they are a little thicker and offer more protection, therefore.
• Apply 2 layers of top coat and cure each. Keep in mind that the removal time will increase.
• Avoid applying sunscreen to your nails.
• Apply cuticle oil to build a barrier against chemical exposure.
• Be transparent and let the customer know that pink shades are more delicate in combination with sunlight and summer activities.
• You can also combine pink with other colors that are less sensitive: Use red as the first color coat and cover it with 2 layers of the desired pink shade.

CASE 2 DISCOLORING:

In extreme cases, the colors do not only fade but lose nearly all their pigments. This is a very clear sign that not enough Top Coat has been applied to the nails. Therefore the color coats didn't have enough protection. When you work with the Shellac system, be aware that Express5 is q rather thin top coat and might not be strong enough for extreme summer conditions. We recommend using the Original Top Coat or Duraforce Top Coat when your clients go on summer holidays.

Always make sure that you do not put too much pressure on the brush but rather float over the nail when you apply the top coat. This ensures that you leave enough product on the nail.

On the before and after image you can see that the gel polish was not applied evenly, the edges are not covered correctly, and finally, the top coat was too thin. Besides that, proper preparation of the nails and cuticles would help for a long-lasting and professional look.

Also when your clients experience discoloration after using make-up, hair coloring, suntan products, etc. usually the top coat is not applied correctly.

So what can we do to help prevent this from happening?

• Apply the top coat even and thick enough.
• Seal the free edge and cover the whole nail.
• Avoid getting makeup and similar products on the surface of the nails.
• Use cuticle oil daily.